Our team tested different Carports on the market today and came to agree that Palram Arcadia 5000 Carport and Abba Patio Extra-Large Heavy Duty Carport are the Best Metallic, Steel & Canvas Carport Canopies you will need in 2023.
Review Of 5 Best Carport Canopies To Buy In 2023:
#1-CHOICE: Palram Arcadia 5000 Carport Shade:
#2-CHOICE: Abba Patio Extra-Large & Heavy-Duty Carport with Removable Sidewalls:
#3-CHOICE: ADVANCE OUTDOOR Heavy-Duty Carport Canopy:
#4-CHOICE: Quictent Upgraded Heavy-Duty Carport Car Canopy with Reinforced Steel Cables:
#5-CHOICE: Peaktop Outdoor Upgraded Heavy-Duty Carport Shelter with Reinforced Triangular Beams & 4 Weight Bags:
How To Build A Carport:
*Get the necessary building permits: You will need to check with your local city planning office to make sure your building project is up to code. In fact, additions and construction on residential property can significantly affect the property value of any home and that’s why its very important to clear such projects with the city. In some areas, you’ll likely need to produce structurally sound building drawings bearing the signature of a licensed structural engineer. o obtain the necessary permits, you’ll likely need to produce: Proof of property ownership, Permit application worksheets provided by the city & Construction drawings.
*Purchase the necessary building materials: You can build carports from wood or metal depending on the style and type of precipitation from which you hope to guard your vehicle. In fact, depending on the climate where you live, different materials and designs may be more or less appropriate. So, feel free to customize the basic design and use whatever materials are available or cheap depending on the type of carport you want to make. Pressure-treated lumber may be more appropriate for drier climates, but will prove to be more durable and customizable in the long run regardless of the climate. A wooden structure built properly will be much sturdier than other structures. Galvanized metal carports are much cheaper and quicker to install although they are ultimately less sturdy in the long run. Often, pre-fabricated carports made of galvanized metal are the best bet for a DIYer in need of a quick project. But if you want a long-term place to park a car, go with lumber.
*Measure the ground: To accommodate an average-sized car, measure a rectangle at least 16-feet (4.9m) long and 9-feet wide. Plot this rectangle on the ground. In fact, a basic carport requires 6-posts with 1-post at each corner of the rectangle 2 more at the middle positions along the 16-foot (4.9m) length. If you’ve got a bigger car, truck or you want to make a carport for multiple vehicles, then make the necessary adjustments to accommodate for the size structure you hope to create.
*Level-up the ground if necessary: Remove any grass in layers with a shovel while raking over the under layers with a metal rake and tamping it with foot-pressure and the same rake. In fact, you might consider measuring for grade to make sure your ground is as flat as possible. If you want to build a carport on an existing concrete pad or at the end of your driveway, then that’s perfectly appropriate. However, measure the dimensions of your concrete pad and shape the structure to the ground rather than the other way around. In fact, you can either build the structure with the poles to either side of the pad while anchoring them in the ground.
*Pour ground cover if necessary: Bare ground is fine in some cases but consider putting down a layer of crushed granite to avoid tracking dirt into the house and wearing down the ground around the carport over time. In case you don’t want to lay gravel, then consider laying some dark weed matting down to keep grass and weeds from re-growing. In fact, the best idea would be to pour concrete or build on top of pre-existing concrete slab. This will give your carport the most life and durability.
*Consider using a pre-fab carport kit: A pre-fabricated kit might be more appropriate if you wish to save time and energy. In fact, metal building materials are usually available for cheaper than the price of a lumber carport kit and complete with installation instructions.
*Dig the holes for the posts: Equally space hole posts around the perimeter of your measured outline for the carport then use post-hole diggers to dig the holes. The holes should be at least 2-feet deep and at least 4-feet deep for a more stable structure if you live in a high-wind climate, an area that receives lots of heavy snowfall or wherever frost occurs at grade.
*Set the 6-posts: You will need heavy-duty posts at least 9-feet high on one side of the carport and 11-feet (3.4m) high on the other side to give the roof enough of a slant to clear any amount of rainwater. The 3 higher posts should be on the side of the carport closest to the house to divert water away from the foundation of the home. So, to set the posts, pour concrete 6″ deep in the 2-foot deep hole then plant the post into the hole so it rests on the bottom. After the concrete has hardened, this will become your post footer and now you can back fill the hole with soil and tamp in the layers. Pour more concrete until the hole is filled and then use a level and make adjustments as the concrete is hardening to ensure that the post is perfectly vertical. Allow the concrete to harden for at least one full day before nailing on the beams.
*Fasten the front & back beams first: To secure the walls of the carport, you will build a simple rectangular box approximately 16-feet (4.9m) long, 9-feet wide and roughly 7-feet high while secured onto the posts. Secure 2 supporting crossbeams flat on the top of the shorter corner posts and extend to the higher corner posts about 2-feet down from their tops. After, nail them to the higher posts using T-shape hangers. However, before nailing the beams down through the T-shape hangers, make sure they are leveled.
*Fasten the side beams: Nail crossbeams across your posts to secure them to the proper code specifications. In fact, the beam on the lower side should be nailed on top of the front and back beams which themselves have been already nailed to the top of the corner posts. If necessary, you can shim to connect them by nailing on top of the middle post on the lower side making the beam level across all three posts. Likewise, it’s important to make your structure as secure as possible especially if you live in snowy, windy or other severe climates. For load-bearing specifications, you will need to research the requirements in your area.
*Fasten rafters to the side beams: The six 2” x 4” x 10′ rafters that will support the roof can be fastened to the core box in one of two ways: The notch-method or hanger-method. In either case, the front rafter and back rafter should be fastened flush with the front beam and the back beam. The remaining four rafters should be arranged equidistant from each other and along the length of the 16-foot side beams about every 3–4 feet (0.9–1.2 m). To notch the rafters, the idea is to rest them on edge of the beams. So, put the front rafter in position and note where it comes into contact with the side beams with a pencil mark. At that point, notch the rafter with the circular saw so that in the finished position the rafter sinks about 1/3 of the four inches onto the beam. Once you are satisfied with how this first rafter rests on the side beams, take it down and use it as a template to notch the other five rafters. When fastening the rafters, angle nails through the side of the rafter into the beam below. However, notching will not work if you need it to remain flush with the beam. On the other hand, to hang the rafters you wil need to buy some metal joist hangers at any hardware store. In fact, there are many different shapes and styles of metal hangers that fasten 2” x 4”s to other structural elements in a variety of orientations. The relevant angle in this structure and the angle of the rafters to the beams is about 25-degrees. These metal hangers can bend to accommodate small variations, so don’t worry about finding the perfect one. Unlike with the notch method, with the hanger method the rafters rest on top of the beams. Your nails will go through the hanger into the rafter, then into the beam.
*Fasten the plywood roof boards to the rafters: Arrange the plywood sheets so that they produce a six-inch overhang on the front and back of the carport so as to achieve a uniform look. Purchase plywood sheets as large as you can get, cut elements with the circular saw to produce the fewest number of seams. In fact, the core box of your carport is 9-feet wide and the rafters are 10-feet long. This means that when the roof elements are in place, you will need enough plywood for about a 6″ overhang on either side of the cart port. If you want it to be longer, then accommodate by buying more plywood. Plywood comes in a variety of thicknesses but for this project you can use ½-inch thick plywood.
*Check the stability of the structure: After the roof is in place, your structure should be quite solid. In fact, nothing you do from this point in the process to the end will improve the carport’s overall stability, so if there is excessive movement, you will have to add stability braces on the outside of the structure to reinforce it.
*Caulk the plywood roof seams: To keep the elements out, it’s very important to cover the roof with tar paper or a synthetic paper and create as waterproof a surface as possible before shingling over it. In fact, there is no sense in creating a carport to keep your car out of the rain if it leaks.
*Fasten shingles on top of the plywood roof elements: Purchase enough 3-tab shingles to lay over the plywood and finish the surface of the carport. It might be a good idea to nail some weather sheeting over the plywood before you lay the shingles for an extra layer of protection. Alternatively, if you don’t want to shingle the roof then you could skip the plywood roof step and install a metal roof over the shingles. In fact, a slanted aluminum roof is common in outbuildings. It might be a good idea, if you can stand the look of it and the loud sound of rain on metal.
*Reinforce the joints with metal-plates: For added stability in the places where the structure meets, it’s a good idea to reinforce with metal bracing. In fact, most hardware stores sell a variety of metal plates that can be nailed onto the various joints in the structural composition most especially where the posts meet the beams, where the beams meet the rafters and at other places.
*Stain the wooden elements: It’s a good idea to treat the exposed wood with a coat of protecting stain. This will increase the life of the wood and keep you from having to repeat the project in a few years. Additionally, its a good idea to re-stain wood regularly to keep the life of the structure up.
All the featured Carport Canopies are durable, anti-UV, waterproof, and tear-resistant so as to ensure maximum vehicle protection against weather in 2023.